Oregon Desert Trail - Region 4 - Section 25
Haddie, Guppy, and Mountain Guy heading on toward the Owyhee Canyons
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Guppy reflects on the beauty of Three Finger Gulch, Owhyee Canyonlands |
Our first Stewardship: Oregon Natural Desert Association offered us a unique challenge and we accepted: Hike the final section of the Oregon Desert Trail while noting and photographing impacts of its use of both living and non-living things along the section.
Beginning at the End
Owyhee Reservoir is our first destination as we are hiking north to south on the last section (#25) of the Oregon Desert Trail. It's mid-May 2019, and the lake is packed with campers and boaters. After discussion with the local State Parks Ranger, we learned of their plans to promote and support the popular biker/hiker element of this area. This allowed us a place to park and camp above and outside their more popular "camper" park along the lake, and it was free.
As part of our Stewardship, it also was necessary to take in the scenic sights along the Owyhee Canyonlands. This year, hiking partners, Guppy (Korina Riggin), Mountain Man (Bill Hull), Wild Flower (Cindy Hull), and I, Bird (Robin Sullivan) made the short 29-mile trek in 4 days. For this, an unseasonably wet year, we didn't have to carry much weight in water, maybe 4-5 liters on average. We were encouraged to add distance to our day when we realized the water was not as big an issue as it had been last year at this time. Yet with so much beauty along the route, we made it our plan not to hike too far in one day; to take note of human impacts and the quality and quantity of water resources, seasonal or not. Also, to encourage everyone we meet to check ONDA's
website first before attempting this or any section of the ODT.
There's no doubt, these Owyhee Canyonlands' environments are in peril and richly deserve our respect. The Canyonland needs constant monitoring and protection but not for its beauty alone. Wildlife makes a home here too. Due to its extremely dry environment, its carrying capacity is fragile. When visiting the Owyhee Canyonlands we are all stewards, serving the needs of every community, both the living and the non-living.
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Lower Birch Creek drainage with intermittent cattle trail and Purple Sage |
Up Birch Creek drainage, our first 4 miles were sage-covered, meandering mostly along and through intermittent cow and sheep trails. Climbing further up the Birch Creek drainage, we also found a few small pockets of poison oak, but nothing too concerning other than fresh cow pies. As we climbed, the soils began to dry and we took more precaution stepping through numerous dried cow hoof holes. Near this area, ATVs have an access corridor, and where their trail ends and the Honeycomb Wilderness Study area begins, there is evidence of vandalism.
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Wilderness Study Area Signage in Birch Creek Drainage |
The slopes above and in Birch Creek drainage are either part of the Owyhee Views Area of Critical Environmental Concern or Wild Horse Basin Wilderness Study Area. We see recognizable signs of ATV activity along and between the two small reservoirs. It's 2019 a good year for the Birch Creek watershed and the Owyhee River. Although, apart from two mallards, there is little sign of migratory birds, amphibians, or reptiles in proximity to these highly exposed water sources with their lack of vegetation.
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After the wet winter and spring of 2019, Birch Reservoir had plenty of water but not much wildlife habitat |
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Abandoned Chukar Egg nest near Rookie Springs |
As we ended our first day, we discovered abandoned Chukar eggs nestled along the grassy sidehill overlooking our destination, Rookie Springs. The springs were contained so the dozen or so cattle couldn't contaminate or comingle directly with our highly anticipated water resupply. Although the springs held a good amount of algae.
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Wild Flower and Guppy purifying water at Rookie Springs |
Leaving our first night's rimrock camp above Rookie Springs with stunning views of Three Fingers Butte, we headed up Sheephead Ridge and Slocum Creek Wilderness Study Area into our highly anticipated route the Honeycomb Contiguous Lands with Wilderness Characteristics and Painted Canyon. Along the route, South Sheephead Springs did have some water, but cows trodden paths lessened its attractiveness. We were already well-stocked from Rookie Springs.
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The second vandalized signage posting a closed ATV area |
As we hiked closer into Painted Canyon from the north, there were signs of ATV type traffic, vandalism, and subtle bits of trash. Painted Canyon had a few informal hiker routes dropping into the canyon from various points. Since we are on the ODT, a route, not a fixed trail, we took down any and all cairns we came across, and any signs of a campfire.
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Tissue wafting in the Painted Canyon |
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Unnecessary cairns through the canyon |
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Bits and pieces of campfire pit debris |
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Orange Peel in Painted Canyon |
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Now you see it |
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Now you don't |
Built directly in the confluence of Carlton Canyon with Painted Canyon, we came across the remains of a small campfire. One of two campfires that could have easily been dismantled. The second, a larger campfire was on a primitive road's end as you enter the canyons, not yet fully developed as a campsite, but with the potential. Both well within the Slocum Creek Wilderness Study Area.
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Larger established fire ring containing glass debris |
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Ash was all the remained after our deconstruction |
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At this point in our hike, it's difficult NOT to post the beauty that also surrounded us! Flowers were everywhere: Bitter Root, Lupine, Larkspur, Oregon Sunshine, Arrowleaf, Paintbrush, Hop Sage, Purple Sage, Buckwheat, Bitterbrush, Vetch, Viola, Dandelion, Fleabane, Phlox, Hawkweed, and Storkbill. But it most certainly was the endangered Owyhee Clover that stole our hearts.
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Rare white, Endangered Owyhee Clover |
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Endangered Owyhee Clover, Flower: Dazzling Disco Ball Style |
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Rose-colored Hop Sage Flowers |
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Tri-Bitter Root Flowers |
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Lupines below Owyhee Ridge in the Birch Creek Drainage |
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Canyons of Colorful Arrowleaf Flowers |
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Oregon Sunshine Down Timber Gulch |
Sauntering into this captivating canyon country such as the Owyhee's Honeycomb Wilderness is full of surprises. With a fairly full backpack, the numerous rock drops and short slots can be treacherous. Snakes and spiders hideout and often surprise a complacent or unsuspecting hiker. That would be me.
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Black Widow along the canyon wall |
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Rattler sleeping along our route |
Beginning to end, Section 25 of the Oregon Desert Trail is worth spending a day, or perhaps more.
For all visitors, a humble approach to understanding and protecting all that it contains is a must. We came and left as guests. We came and left as more informed stewards of these canyons.
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Mountain Man and Bird: Understanding our route through Birch Creek Drainage
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Guppy and Wild Flower negotiate a rock face drop-in Painted Canyon
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Guppy, Mountain Man, and his faithful dog Hiker Haddie take in the view of Three Finger Buttes |
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Guppy heading south toward Three Finger Gulch |
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Early Morning in the Honeycombs |
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Our campsite looking into Painted Canyon
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Written May 18, 2019, by Robin Sullivan, Photographs by Robin Sullivan and Cindy Hull